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Junior contre Senior

Junior contre Senior

Ce qui fait leur différence

9 novembre 2011, 

Des noms comme Adam Ondra, Johanna Ernst et Anna Stöhr ne vous sont certainement pas inconnus. Et pour cause. Ces dernières années, ils ont fait fureur sur les circuits de compétition en prouvant encore une fois que l'avenir est à la jeunesse. Au delà de leurs résultats extraordinaires on assiste de plus en plus à une migration précoce des jeunes grimpeurs vers le circuit senior. Certains athlètes déjà bien connus parviennent même à s'y faire une place: les Allemands Megos et Halenke ou la Française Serrière. Conséquence de tout ça, la pression sur la vieille garde s'intensifie et les anciens à l'exemple d'Angela Eiter ou Ramon Julian Puigblanque doivent faire usage de tonnes de ressources et de confiance pour maintenir leur avance. La dernière Coupe du Monde de Puurs en a été un nouvel exemple, un mélange d'athlètes jeunes et plus expérimentés. Nous avons posé quelques questions à la jeune garde pour écouter ce qu'elle avait à dire sur les compétitions senior.

Loïc Timmermans

Honneur à Loïc Timmermans qui a participé à sa première compétition international senior ici à Puurs. Expérience plutôt positive puisqu'il a atteint la demi-finale 19ème pour perdre quelques places le lendemain et terminer à une 23ème place annonciatrice d'un avenir glorieux. Du moins peut-on l'espérer.

Belclimb: Félicitations pour ton résultat. Qu'as-tu pensé de la compétition?

Loïc Timmermans: Cela s'est bien passé. J'étais super motivé dans ma première voie et je me suis donné à fond. Les mouvements se sont enchaînés et j'ai grimpé de façon très fluide. Avant la compétition j'avais essayé les voies de l'année passée à plusieurs reprises et elles me semblaient très difficiles. Je m'attendais donc à devoir grimper dans du dur mais cela s'est avéré plus abordable que prévu. Tous les mouvements dans lesquels je pensais avoir des difficultés sont passés beaucoup mieux que je m'y attendais. Je suis donc tombé assez haut. Dans la deuxième voie, ça a été le contraire. Je n'ai peut-être pas assez mangé mais je n'étais certainement pas assez concentré. Je pensais à autre chose et quand je me suis rendu compte que j'étais en train de grimper, il était déjà trop tard et j'ai chuté… Il m'est peut-être arrivé la même chose qu'à Veliko Tarnovo le mois dernier. La première voie de qualification s'est passé sans encombre alors que j'étais un peu distrait dans la seconde.

Est-ce que ces deux rendez-vous n'étaient pas moins importants dans ton calendrier?

Non. A Veliko je n'étais 100% en forme mais je savais qu'il n'y aurait pas beaucoup de compétiteurs présents. J'espérais obtenir un bon résultat. Ici à Puurs, je suis venu sans pression avec pour objectif de me faire une première impression sur le circuit senior. Je me suis entraîné de façon très minutieuse pour cette compétition et les suivantes.

Comment comparerais-tu les circuits A (cadets) et senior?

Les deux sont complètement différents. Wow, c'est bien plus dur ici. Déjà au niveau des qualifications mais surtout au niveau des demi-finales… Rien à voir avec les compétitions espoirs. L'ambiance est plus ou moins semblable et il y a encore pas mal d'esprit de camaraderie. Quelques-uns le prennent beaucoup plus au sérieux mais la plupart le vivent avec l'esprit des grimpeurs.

Selon toi, les voies sont plus dures que celles auxquelles tu es habitué en compétition. Tu peux néanmoins t'entraîner dans cette salle toute l'année. Est-ce que le style des voies de compétition est différent de celui de voies classiques de Klimax II?

Le style des voies est très comparable à celui des voies de l'année dernière. Pour le reste c'est tout à fait d'un autre ordre. Généralement un 8a à Klimax est une succession uniforme de bacs à l'intérieur du dévers. En ce qui concerne les voies de compet elles demandent un petit peu plus. Elles sont plus techniques et ressemblent plus à une sorte de parcours découverte à travers le toit. Pour le reste les cotations des voies en compétition ont sans doute quelque chose de particulier en soi…

Qui va gagner cette année?

Jakob Schubert et Ja-In Kim. (ndlr. En cela, Loïc ne s'est pas trompé)

Max Rudigier

Max Rudigier est le prochain grand d'Autriche. Pour cette seule année, il a déjà participé à plus de 11 compétitions internationales officielles. A trois reprises il est même parvenu à empocher la victoire, une fois en bloc et deux fois en difficulté. Dès 2007 où Max a commencé comme minime jusqu'à maintenant il a pu collectionné les médailles et depuis 2009 il a aussi pris part à plusieurs compétitions senior.
 
Belclimb: Comment s'est passé la compétition?

Max Rudigier: Eh bien, il s'agit peut-être de la meilleure compétition à laquelle j'ai pu participer jusqu'à présent. Les voies correspondaient parfaitement à mon style et je suis parvenu à décrocher la 9ème place. J'aurais peut-être pu gagner une place en demi mais je n'ai pas réussi à trouver de bon point de repos dans la voie.

Tu participes également aux compétitions espoirs. Sur quelle base comparer les deux circuits?

Les voies et mouvements sont plus puissants et plus durs. Je vois rarement des voies aussi déversantes et athlétiques qu'ici. Il est bien probable que tu puisses trouver des voies d'un style similaire à Imst mais Edimbourg, par exemple, n'a rien à voir avec cette compétition. Par rapport à l'année dernière, j'ai bien plus profité des voies. En ce qui concerne l'ambiance, tu dois aussi compter sur le possibilité de te faire plus d'amis sur le circuit espoirs. Des grimpeurs que tu vas ensuite cotoyer pendant toute ta carrière de compétiteur.

Est-ce que les circuits de bloc et de difficulté ont des ressemblances?

Si tu es un bon grimpeur de difficulté, tu peux espérer perfer en bloc. Ce n'est pas vrai dans le cas contraire.

Les grimpeurs de difficulté seraient-ils meilleurs?

[rires]… Non, ce n'est pas ainsi que je vois les choses.

Est-ce qu'un grimpeur se doit d'être polyvalent?

Selon moi, on prend plus de plaisir dans les variations, c'est-à-dire tester toutes les disciplines.

David Firnenburg

Tout comme Loïc, David Firnenburg en est à sa première année sur le circuit senior. Les deux grimpeurs se rencontrent d'ailleurs tout en long de l'année dans les finales des compétitions auxquels ils participent. En avril dernier l'Allemand est parvenu à réussir son premier 9a en falaise. Depuis cette année, son frère Ruben l'accompagne d'ailleurs sur toutes les compétitions du circuits jeunes. Aussi bien en Allemagne qu'en Belgique, avec les Timmermans et les Favresse, l'escalade est une affaire de famille.

Belclimb: Comment s'est passé ta compétition aujourd'hui?

David Firnenburg: Je pense que c'était un bon résultat. Mon objectif était d'atteindre les demi-finales. J'ai obtenu la 22ème place après les qualifications que j'ai pu conserver en demi. Je rentre à la maison satisfait.

Est-ce que tu as pu profiter de la compétition?

Bien sûr. J'adore grimper à Puurs du fait du style énergique des voies et de l'escalade raide et athlétique. Une autre façon de grimper et que j'apprécie. Je suis conscient d'avoir des lacunes en puissance car je suis plus performant techniquement. Cependant je parviens tout de même à prendre du plaisir dans un style complètement opposé.

Ton premier 9a à Margalef, Era Bella, n'est-elle pas une voie athlétique? Est-ce qu'on peut en conclure que tu sais aussi tirer ton plan dans ce genre de voies?

C'est vrai. Peut-être suis-je bon dans les deux styles?

Est-ce qu'il y a une grosse différence entre le circuit A et les seniors?

Je pense bien. Le circuit espoirs doit être considéré comme un sous-circuit. Les seniors ont plus de puissance, les voies sont plus athlétiques ce qui est certainement le cas ici à Puurs. Même à Chamonix sur un tout autre genre de mur les voies étaient plutôt athlétiques. Chez les jeunes je vois plus les choses comme un jeu où règne en permanence une ambiance sympathique. Chez les adultes, c'est beaucoup plus strict et sérieux. On n'aperçoit pas beaucoup de sourires sur les visages mais cela reste fun entre potes.

Quelle est la différence entre les compétitions de bloc internationales et celles de difficulté?

En bloc, on ne compte que 6 finalistes. Il est donc plus difficile d'atteindre le stade des finales. Tout grimpeur doit aussi se préparer à effectuer toute sorte de mouvements. L'escalade y est en quelque sorte plus complexe. Le bloc est plus court mais exige plus de qualité.

Les grimpeurs de bloc seraient-ils meilleurs?

Oui, mais seulement pendant 5 mouvements. Si cela devient plus long, un grimpeur de bloc peut voir surgir les problèmes.

Où en est le statut de l'escalade en tant que sport en Allemagne?

On assiste à un grand boum des salles d'escalade sous l'impulsion de notre fédération. La croissance s'observe aussi au niveau des pratiquants. On voit que l'intérêt grandit. Peut-être vivra-t-on les Jeux Olympiques en 2020... A la télévision on ne peut voir pour le moment que des documentaires qui ont principalement pour sujet l'alpinisme. Pourtant la majorité des Allemands connaissent aussi l'escalade sportive, aussi bien en bloc que la difficulté. Ils persistent à demander à quelle vitesse je grimpe mais j'essaie dans ce cas de rester claire. L'escalade est plus complexe qu'une course contre la montre. Des mouvements tellement différents, tellement polyvalents…

A propos des JO, penses-tu que la vitesse soit suffisante ou est-ce que ce sont toutes les disciplines qui doivent être reprises dans la liste olympique?

Je ne hais certainement pas la vitesse. Le public aura peut-être plus à manger avec cette discipline parce qu'elle représente une approche quick and dirty, à franchement parler. Néanmoins j'estime que cela vaudrait la peine que les trois disciplines soient présentées ensemble au grand public.

Ok, tu souhaites ajouter quelque chose à cette interview?

Aucune idée. Quoique... Je m'interroge sur le fait de savoir si les juniors vont dominer le circuit senior? On y trouve plus de juniors que par le passé et ils représentent un plus grand potentiel. Si le sport continue à croître et à devenir plus populaire, par exemple en passant sous bannière olympique, les juniors devraient prendre l'ascendant. L'âge du pic de performance descendrait vers 18, 17 voire 16 ans. Là où il se situe plutôt entre 20 et 30 aujourd'hui. En tant qu'athlète tu dois emmagasiner pas mal d'expérience pendant tes premières années en senior et c'est probablement là que se forge la différence entre circuit espoirs et senior. L'accumulation de l'expérience. Ces années seront intéressantes à vivre.

Merci beaucoup et bonne chance pour la suite!

Tijl


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