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Magnus Midtbø

Magnus Midtbø

Une valeur montante venue de Norvège

15 octobre 2011, 

Ces dernières années le Norvégien Magnus Midtbø est apparu comme l'un des talents les plus prometteurs du milieu de l'escalade. A l'âge de 11 ans, sa mère l'inscrit à son premier cours. Douze mois plus tard en 2001, il remporte le Championnat de Norvège dans sa catégorie. Précoce... Deux ans après ses débuts, la course folle continue avec l'enchaînement de son premier 8a. Et plus rien ne l'arrête. De 2004 à 2007, Magnus écume les compétitions internationales jeunes; il en rapporte 12 médailles d'or dont un titre de Champion du Monde.
Aujourd'hui, l'expérience engrangée sur le circuit senior semble porter ses fruits. Les résultats de Magnus parlent d'eux-mêmes: une participation à la Coupe du Monde de Chamonix et une au Championnat du Monde d'Arco. Mais à chaque fois un bon résultat à la clef: le bronze à la première et quatrième à la deuxième.

Nous l'avons rencontré après les qualifications à Puurs.

Belclimb: En voyant tes résultats cette année et quand on sait que Klimax est ton mur favori, on imagine que tu as pas mal d'espoir pour cette compétition?

Magnus: j'ai pas mal d'espoir en effet. J'essaie toujours de viser les finales et une fois dedans tout peut arriver. Tout le monde procède de la sorte. A Puurs, j'aime particulièrement le style des voies. Aujourd'hui (ndlr: qualifications du vendredi 30 septembre) j'ai peut-être un peu trop donné dans la première voie ce qui fait que je suis arrivé fatigué dans la deuxième. Ce n'était pas le meilleur choix d'un point de vue stratégique mais maintenant j'ai le temps de manger et de me reposer pour demain.

Cette année, on ne t'a vu que sur des compétitions européennes. Difficile de participer à toutes les étapes du calendrier? (10 manches de Coupe du Monde de juillet à novembre)

Honnêtement, je ne participe pas aux compétitions pour le classement général. D'ailleurs j'ai le sentiment que peu d'entre nous se préoccupe du ranking. Cette année, j'ai choisi de ne participer qu'aux compétitions qui m'amusent vraiment. Chamonix et Puurs sont aussi des étapes où tous les grimpeurs se rendent. Selon moi ce sont les plus prestigieuses du circuit et donc les plus importantes. Je suis convaincu que le calendrier devrait compter moins de compétitions. Seulement les plus importantes.

L'été dernier, on t'a vu remporter une compétition de deep water soloing près d'Oslo. Est-ce qu'on doit y voir un nouveau format de compétition dans le futur?

Très certainement. Je pense que c'est vraiment agréable à voir. Le public s'amuse à regarder les grimpeurs tomber dans l'eau. D'un autre côté le matériel est limité au strict minimum, ce qui n'est pas plus mal. Pas de baudrier, pas de corde, pas de dégaines à cliper. C'est néanmoins assez difficile à organiser. Tu dois trouver un lieu pour monter un mur, où le public a une belle vue et où l'eau est en mouvement. Sans vague ni courant il est beaucoup trop difficile de pénétrer dans l'eau. L'eau doit être pétillante (bubbly water) comme dans les concours de plongeon. Tu plonges plus profondément sous l'eau mais l'entrée est beaucoup plus douce.

Une forme plus pure d'escalade, sans clipage ni fioritures?

J'ai l'impression. Même si, tout naturellement, certaines personnes en ont peur. Quand le grimpeur se trouve dans un toit ou doit sortir un dyno, il peut se faire très mal en chutant. Lors cette compétition quelques micro-accidents ont eu lieu mais pour moi le fun passe par là. L'escalade n'est-elle pas un sport extrême?

Les instances internationales se donnent beaucoup de mal pour faire admettre l'escalade aux Jeux Olympiques. La décision tombera en 2013. Entre-temps c'est la vitesse qui sert de fer de lance. Le format de compétition doit-il changer ou est-ce que l'escalade doit rentrer telle quelle aux Jeux?

Si l'entrée aux JO passe par un changement de format, je n'y suis personnellement pas favorable. D'un autre côté, ça n'a pas beaucoup d'intérêt à mes yeux. Les Jeux Olympiques sont une compétition comme les autres. L'escalade a toujours été un sport un peu underground. Le grand public ne le connaît pas. Je trouve à chaque fois pénible qu'on me demande à quelle vitesse je peux grimper mais cela fait partie du jeu, le nôtre. Seule notre communauté et personne d'autres n'est en mesure de savoir autour de quoi ça tourne. Je préfère ça.

Un peu underground mais aussi un peu nature. L'année dernière tu as été un des premiers à accrocher un 9b à ton tableau de chasse. Et cette année?

Je me suis concentré sur le circuit des compétitions en participant à plusieurs compétitions dans mon pays, quelques manches de la Coupe du Monde ainsi qu'aux Championnats du Monde. Je me suis beaucoup investi et l'entraînement paie. Dans la foulée, je voulais aller à Flatanger pour équiper et cela m'a pris pas mal de temps.

On a déjà pas mal entendu parler de ce Flatanger. Comment as-tu découvert ce mur et quels sont les projets?

Cela fait déjà pas mal de temps que j'en avais entendu parler. Il y a trois ans quelqu'un m'a donné des infos sur la grotte et les quelques voies qui avaient déjà été équipées. Elles se trouvaient à l'extrême gauche là où le dévers n'est pas trop important. D'autres personnes m'ont parlé de la partie centrale et du potentiel. La falaise est située à une dizaine d'heures de route de là où j'habite. Bref c'est toute une expédition pour y arriver. Le fait que ce genre de grottes soit parfois complètement dénuée de prises et que cela ne m'intéresse pas de tailler, justifie le temps que j'ai mis pour m'y rendre. Une fois sur place, j'ai été énormément surpris par le potentiel. J'ai en tête une voie qui devrait atteindre 180 mètres de long. Elle part en bas à gauche mais si tu suis une ligne de fissures naturelles des voies de 200 voire même 250 mètres sont envisageables. On doit le voir pour le croire. Et quand on le voit, on doit le grimper pour comprendre à 100% ce qui nous arrive.
 


 

En mai de l'année prochaine on projète d'y organiser un petit événement pas trop officiel. Uniquement pour le fun. J'ai l'impression que ça va être chouette parce que pas mal de personnes m'ont déjà demandé des infos à ce sujet. On pense à quelque chose comme le Roctrip mais j'espère avec beaucoup plus de voies. Pas seulement une voie ultime pour les hommes et pour les femmes.

Quelle est l'importance de l'escalade en Norvège?

L'escalade est importante mais pas autant que le football ou le ski. On compte beaucoup de grimpeurs en Norvège. Approximativement une personne sur 100 pratique l'escalade. C'est un sport très populaire et peut-être un des sports qui croît le plus vite dans le pays. Il a reçu un peu d'attention tout dernièrement sur la plus grosse chaîne de télévision du pays avec un reportage sur ma saison de compétition. De plus quelques jeunes athlètes se débrouillent vraiment bien en compétition internationale. Par exemple Tina (Johnsen Hafsaas).

On a appris à te connaître grâce à tes vidéos d'entraînement sur Internet. Pourtant tu n'as jamais eu d'entraîneur ni de coach. Où as-tu appris tout ce que tu sais?

Cela ne fait pas longtemps que les grimpeurs norvégiens ont le niveau qu'ils ont aujourd'hui. J'ai donc pas mal voyagé et je me suis entraîné avec d'autres personnes comme David Lama. J'ai longtemps séjourné à Innsbruck où j'ai cotoyé d'autres grimpeurs. J'ai beaucoup appris à leur contact et j'ai pu en tirer le meilleur. Une recette d'entraînement qui fonctionne pour moi.
 


 

Selon toi, quel grimpeur mérite une interview et pour quelles raisons?

Je pense que Jorg (Verhoeven) mérite certainement une interview. Je le compare à une sorte d'underdog. Il n'a pas été très présent dans les média ces derniers temps mais il donne tout ce dont il est capable pour revenir au top sans exiger quoi que ce soit. Un très bel esprit. Il ne demande aucune attention et fait tout cela parce qu'il aime le faire.

Ok. Merci pour cette interview et bonne chance pour la suite!

Tijl

Le site de Magnus Midtbø


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Les archives des articles 

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Que retenir du Championnat de Belgique de bloc 2015?

Compétition Que retenir du Championnat de Belgique de bloc 2015?

Le dernier Championnat de Belgique de bloc 2015 a vu le sacre de Simon Lorenzi et Chloé Caulier. Devant une assistance clairsemée de par la proximité des vacances, les deux grimpeurs ont affirmé leur supériorité avec beaucoup d'aisance.

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Hungaria fermée, quelles sont les alternatives d'escalade à Leuven?

Escalade en salle Hungaria fermée, quelles sont les alternatives d'escalade à Leuven?

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4 janvier 2016,