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La Sportiva Futura

La Sportiva Futura

Le concept No Edge en point de mire

3 septembre 2012, 

Chaque année, Tom Boonen prend le départ du Tour des Flandres sur un nouveau vélo. Un “prototype exclusif”, équipé de “roues aérodynamiques développées en soufflerie”, et un cadre “en carbone ultra résistant”. Je me dis à quoi bon? 6000 euro pour un vélo, ce n’est pas le problème, mais pourquoi ne parlent-ils jamais du confort de la selle?

Les chaussons d’escalade me donnent le même sentiment. Il y a énormément de nouvelles marques, et les fabricants traditionnels sortent chaque année un nouveau modèle phare, avec une nouvelle gomme ou un nouveau système d’attache complètement innovant. Hélas, c’est souvent beaucoup de blabla pour pas grand chose. Et le confort reste un point délicat. Après avoir grimpé avec 5.10, Boreal, Scarpa, La Sportiva, Rock Pillars, Millet, Montrail, et sans oublier Asolo (ma toute première paire de chaussons) je pensais avoir tout vu en terme de nouveautés. De toute façon, une paire de chaussons n’est pas un smartphone.

Le légendaire Bleausard belge Ivan Moreels me le fit remarquer il y a quelques années. Il chaussait des La Sportiva Solution et disait qu’il avait commencé à mieux grimper avec. Mais sa remarque m’avait laissé perplexe. Les Solution étant, hélas, à peine assez larges pour mes pieds… Malgré cela, je n’ai pas pu résister à l’attrait de tester des Futura

Avec un chausson classique, tous les orteils sont exploités, mais avec la Futura c’est comme si votre pied n’existait qu’à travers votre gros orteil.

Les Futura sont des chaussons très étroits: d’un bleu clair éclatant, avec une fine bande de caoutchouc qui, comme sur les Speedster, part de la plante du pied, englobe la pointe et la partie supérieure du chausson et inclut le gros orteil dans la zone crochetante. C’est un détail qui va rapidement vous sauter aux yeux: avec le Futura toute la force est centrée sur le gros orteil. Dans un chausson d’escalade classique, tous les orteils sont exploités lors de l’escalade, mais avec la Futura c’est comme si votre pied n’existait qu’à travers votre gros orteil. C’est un peu comparable à un crampon mono-pointe mais avec plus de stabilité et de sensation. Je n’ai jamais ressenti cela avec un autre chausson.

Le 'No Edge Concept' renforce encore plus ce point de vue: la gomme sur la pointe du chausson enrobe le gros orteil et n’offre pas d’arête. Cela rend possible la rotation du pied sur la prise sans que le pied lui-même ne soit éjecté. D’après La Sportiva, il en résulte “un contact avec la roche plus précis, plus lisse et plus harmonieux”… et bien c’est vrai. Il faut s’y habituer au début, mais avec le temps vous pourrez même déposer votre pied de façon imprécise, avec la certitude qu’il restera en place. A Hampi où le granit est connu pour être particulièrement acéré, j’ai pu déposer le bout de mon pied partout sans attendre que la gomme lisse et propre (inhérente à toutes nouvelles paires de chaussons) ne soit entamée. Je vous conseillerais donc de le déchausser immédiatement après votre voie. Il n’est pas fait pour rester aux pieds...

Les Futura restent accessibles à tout le monde: la chaussette en 'Lorica' neoprène n’est fermée que d’un côté, ce qui permet un chaussage très facile et une amélioration de la tenue de pied. De fait les Futura vont comme un gant, et produisent ce bruit typique de succion lorsqu’on les met. En ce qui concerne l’assymétrie et l’agressivité du chausson cela le fait mieux que prévu. L’excès de mouvements haut-bas sur le pied peuvent occasionner des crampes au mollet, mais ici rien à signaler. Probablement à cause de la sensation de grip obtenue grâce, justement, au No Edge Concept.

Le talon est comparable à celui des Testarossa, et répond à donc à ce qu’un talon doit être: pas trop profond ni trop épais, et suffisamment souple pour sentir la prise. Le 'Fast Lacing System' offre aussi pas mal de tension sur le talon pour que les crochetages nécessitant plus de puissance restent stables. Le phénomène Cobra qui vous obligeait à choisir une autre paire de chaussons quand un de vos projets comprenaient un talon tombe donc aux oubliettes avec les Futura.

Du côté des points faibles, on retrouve la petite sangle qui ferme le chausson, la même que celle des Solution. Elle semble toujours aussi délicate. Bizarre qu’elle n’ait pas été adaptée entre-temps. Les Futura étant aussi fabriqués à base de cuir, ils s’étirent donc particulièrement. Ceci est à prendre en considération lorsque vous aurez mal pendant les premières séances. De plus le Fast Lacing System a tendance à procurer une sensation de déséquilibre après un temps en créant beaucoup de tension sur la plante, et moins sur les orteils.

Nombreux sont ceux qui ont attendu le lancement des Futura (je n’ai jamais autant entendu parler de mes nouveaux chaussons que cette fois-ci), et c’est justifié. Pour ceux qui trouvaient les Solutions trop extrêmes et qui aiment grimper avec des sensations, je recommande certainement ces Futura!

Renaat

 

Fiche technique

Composition: Cuir Suède et Lorica®
Semelle: Vibram® XSGrip2 3 mm
Tailles: 32 - 46 (demi-tailles disponibles)
Poids: 450 grammes
Prix public conseillé: 139 Euro
Info: www.lasportiva.com


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